FAQ | Frequently Asked Questions About Think Paint


The quart kit will yield 75 square feet per kit, half gallon kit yields 150 square feet, and the 2 gallon kit will yield 1200 sq ft. Each of these yields has been specifically chosen to reflect the method of application we require in the installation instructions. It is important to NOT stretch the product beyond the intended yield and you must use the approved underlying layers and application method in order to achieve this yield.
Dry time is commonly what we talk about when we ask when is it dry to the touch?. We would always suggest that while that may vary depending upon the temperature and the ambient relative humidity of the site where the coating was applied, you should expect 2-4 hours after application before you can touch the surface. And 3 days before writing on the surface.
What primer is recommended if going over an existing paint or an older plaster surface with unknown coatings already in place? None should be necessary if the surface is sealed. You can test the surface by applying a small amount of paint to see if it is absorbed or uneven in appearance and that would indicate the surface is not sealed
Yes, you are not applying individual coats after allowing one to first dry. Our installation instructions follow what has become a fairly common method of first spreading the initial roller full of paint around the surface, then adding a bit more during the back roll and balancing of that same area as you proceed. This “wet into wet” method is considered to be one coat.
We would recommend that you have new buckets and grids, roller trays and liners, brushes, and roller handles for the application. You should not plan on cleaning up these tools for subsequent usage. You are better to think of disposal at the end of the useful life for each of them. If your painters are applying all day, then the use of appropriate respirators is recommended.
We would ask that you be respectful of any occupants of the area or other trades. While this product has no toxic vapors to be concerned with, the components do have a slight solvent content and do evaporate when the paint is drying. Therefore, it is best if you plan for a full air exchange of at least once per hour. Often this can be achieved by setting up fans to blow the air out of open doors and windows to dissipate the buildup of any of those.
Acetone or high flash naptha would be the recommended solvent to loosen any splatters or drips which may have occurred during application. The sooner you address them, the better. Test other surfaces before you assume they will not be affected by the acetone. We would recommend that you protect adjacent surfaces rather than attempt to clean them after the fact.
You will need to be the one to predict your end user and their expectations. If critical, we would recommend that you use a short nap foam or velour roller cover to tightly apply all perimeters against trim or ceiling grids or baseboards. We do allow you to use a foam brush to cut in those edges, but some end users may want you to use the shorter (3”-4”) rollers along those same edges to eliminate any potential for fingering. In most cases, if you cut first and then tightly roll with the supplied foam roller covers along those edges, you should find the result acceptable, but you must address which option is to be pursued with your parties who need to approve the final appearance. It is always recommended to do sample boards before actual application to get the clients approval.

Surface Prep

 As with any high gloss roller applied coating, you will see some orange peel. The correct amount of coating, coupled with the correct foam roller will wind up a gentle orange peel which will yield the type of erasure performance desired and intended. If your end user demands an even more smooth appearance (again, just for appearance because the product will perform as intended), then spray application of both the primer and the topcoat may be necessary. Obviously, you may need to conduct a mock up to have this conversation in advance with all pertinent parties.
Storage needs to be in a reasonable range. Do not store out of a range of 50-90 degrees Fahrenheit. This product does have a shelf life which is clearly identified on the can labeling so that you know the date of creation for that can and thus when it will expire 12 months later assuming the container remains unopened.
We would always seek to have at least a level 4 Gypsum Wallboard Association finish level to your surface. If new gypsum board, that should be easy to achieve. If an existing surface, address any repairs and seal accordingly once you have arrived at that uniformly smooth surface required. In some cases, you may encounter strong cross lighting or down lighting which will highlight surface imperfections. You should critique those scenarios before you begin and in such cases, a full GA level 5 surface may be prudent. You need to discuss this option with all pertinent parties connected to your project in advance of application or after completing a mock up.
Absolutely. And you may need to test them for moisture content if deep. So do not assume that because your patch’s surface is dry that it has the correct moisture content to proceed. You should always have no more than 8% moisture content before you proceed to topcoat (or prime in this case).
Yes, use 150 grit to take down any debris or surface contaminates. This will both help to smooth the resulting orange peel at this point, as well as to establish some tooth to the surface for bonding. Be certain to wipe all dust with a clean cotton cloth before applying the dry erase coating.

Mixing the components

Very. It is essential to the proper performance that you spend the time to correctly blend together the two components. This takes 1 minute of hand mixing Component A as well as a few minutes to mix both components A and B together in the paint tray using a back and forth motion to avoid creating air bubbles.
The product is mixed 1:1 ratio in the roller tray which can hold 1 quart of mixed paint (32 fluid ounces). We caution you against attempting to field estimate this and thereby partially mix only SOME of the contents. If you miss that ratio, performance will be impaired. Additionally, the shelf life of the opened contents will be shortened due to their increased exposure to air within the cans.
Once you have completed the mixing, you will have a 45 minute pot life to finish the application of this material. Cover any unused portion to guard it from skinning over with exposure to air.


In some cases, yes. If your wall is shorter than 16 lineal feet across and 10 feet high, then you can complete your cut in (by brush or by short roller) if doing so immediately prior to the roller application of the full wall.
You should first roll out about 8 lineal feet of wall, floor to ceiling in a medium rate of coverage. Then you will return to that same area and backroll after dipping the roller again in order to have sufficient product to spread over that approximately 72 sq ft.
Yes, that appears to work best, so dip and backroll, then final roll to tip off in a uniform direction.
The product needs to be on the surface between 4 and 6 mils WFT, or wet film average thickness. You should target the midpoint of 5 mils to achieve the yield we are suggesting.
That varies related to the temperature and relative humidity of your site environment, but in most average settings, you should have about 30 minutes during which you can go back and manipulate the surface and still have time to adjust what you see. Higher temps and higher humidity will shorten the workable time and accelerate the drying time.
It may be best to remove it once you have completed the surface. Take care during removal and keep a consistent angle of being perpendicular to the line of removal. Your goal should be to maintain crisp edges along all removed edges and minimize and lifting off the primer. If you have any concerns during removal, use a snap off knife and blade to cautiously cut the edge of the tape to facilitate a crisp removal line at all points.